«Ты зачем деньги ешь?»: О ресурсной и нересурсной природе рыбы

Кунсткамера. 2020. № 1 (7). С. 79–86.

Troitskaya-Rakhmanova L.

What is the difference between “trashy” and valuable species of fi sh? Is it possible to say that the
former become ‘food’ for local people, while the latter become “commodity”? In settlements where sterlet,
muksun and sturgeon are the backbone of many families, the circulation of fi sh between the parties takes on
different forms, the meaning of which can only be understood ad hoc. The drop in catches in the Ob River means
that the importance of fi sh as part of the diet is overshadowed, and fi sh is mainly sold, exchanged and bribed.
Thus, for example, the value of sterlet has been justifi ed in several perspectives: its rarity, taste properties, content
of nutrients and the historical tradition of its consumption by high-ranking offi cials. However, a contradiction
emerges in these justifi cations of the symbolic value of fi sh: how can a person, who hardly ever consumes fi sh
himself, describe its properties and health benefi ts? And, on the other hand, if sterlet is included in his daily diet,
can it still be considered a “royal fi sh”, a unique and high-status product? This article is based on the abovedescribed
“interplay” of practices and justifi cations of the “nature” and value of fi sh.

Keywords: природопользование, ценность, дар, value, resource, nutrition, exchange, gift, food, пища, обмен, питание, ресурс, Томская область, рыбный промысел, Обь, fishing, Ob, Tomsk Region, natural resources management