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Статья

Nonlinear wave effects at the nonreflecting beach

Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics. 2012. No. 19(1). P. 1-8.
Pelinovsky E., Диденкулова И. И.
Nonlinear effects at the bottom profile of convex shape (non-reflecting beach) are studied using asymptotic approach (nonlinear WKB approximation) and direct perturbation theory. In the asymptotic approach the nonlinearity leads to the generation of high-order harmonics in the propagating wave, which result in the wave breaking when the wave propagates shoreward, while within the perturbation theory besides wave deformation it leads to the variations in the mean sea level and wave reflection (waves do not reflect from “non-reflecting” beach in the linear theory). The nonlinear corrections (second harmonics) are calculated within both approaches and compared between each other. It is shown that for the wave propagating shoreward the nonlinear correction is smaller than the one predicted by the asymptotic approach, while for the offshore propagating wave they have a similar asymptotic. Nonlinear corrections for both waves propagating shoreward and seaward demonstrate the oscillatory character, caused by interference of the incident and reflected waves in the second-order perturbation theory, while there is no reflection in the linear approximation (firstorder perturbation theory). Expressions for wave set-up and set-down along the non-reflecting beach are found and discussed.