Перья, фрукты и зефир: спектакулярность в дизайне костюмов для голливудских фильмов 1920–1940-х годов

Теория моды: одежда, тело, культура. 2020. № 56. С. 9–30.

Bakina T.

The paper Feathers, Fruits and Mallows: Extravagance in 1920s — 1940s Hollywood Costume Design focuses on unusual and over-the-top dress in classic Hollywood movies. Taking a detailed look at the factors behind this phenomenon, the paper also examines the importance of these costumes within the overall structure and plot of specific films. The author sets out by analysing the design of stage and performance costumes for 1930s — 1940s Hollywood musicals, pointing out in particular the influence of Broadway revue shows, primarily the theatrical revues of Florence Ziegfeld, Jr. In the second part of the paper, the author looks at the expressive impact of masquerade costumes in films. The aithor also examines the visualisation of the external transformation of female characters through changes in their external appearance, dress, and style. The paper then discusses the tendency towards symbolism in screen costume design, pointing in particular to the frequent use of animalistic imagery. Sexuality, the author argues, is often portrayed through the incorporation in dress and accessories of edible symbols, such as colourful fruit and berries, or pastries and sweets. The author concludes by stressing that the exaggerated imagery and spectacular effects in Hollywood costume design were not due merely to the specific plot of this or that film, or even to the evolving role of costume at this or that stage in the American film industry’s development. These visual images were also used to attract attention, to produce a vivid impression among the audience, and ultimately, to develop an almost sensory level of film appreciation through a focus on corporeality and fi ne detail in the costumes.

Keywords: мода, fashion, дизайн костюма, classic Hollywood cinema, классический Голливуд, costume designer, design in film, дизайн в кино