Время винтажной моды: вопросы темпоральности и памяти

Артикульт. 2024. № 55. С. 62–73.

Размахнина А. А.

Summary: The concept of “fashion” implies constant renewal and a clear rhythm of changing trends, therefore, before starting to study vintage clothing in the context of fashion, one should first prove the involvement of vintage in fashion discourse. This paper attempts to incorporate vintage into fashion discourse through the introduction of the concepts of non-linear and uchronial time. This becomes possible through the theories developed by Walter Benjamin, Michel Serres, Jean Baudrillard and other researchers. The paper consists of three parts. The first is devoted to the issues of time contained in clothing. These may be frozen forms of the past, suddenly appearing in the present due to some kind of curvature of time. Or they could be vintage objects that contain memory and time in the form of tangible or intangible traces. The second part is devoted to issues of reconstruction of the past. The image of the past is formed in the present, which is why historical reconstructions of different years differ so much. The availability of historical sources plays a big role in this.The third part is devoted to wardrobe practices of vintage lovers and the analysis of these techniques based on the above theories of nonlinear and uchronial time.
 

Keywords: мода, темпоральность, fashion, нелинейное время, time and temporality, antilinear time, vintage fashion, wardrobe practices, винтаж, винтажная мода, гардеробные практики