Частотные спектры и распределения высот поверхностных волн по результатам измерений у острова Сахалин

Известия РАН. Физика атмосферы и океана. 2025. Т. 61. № 5. С. 619–632.

Трегубов А. С., Кокорина А. В., Slunyaev A., Didenkulova E., Зайцев А. И.

Spectral characteristics of long-term measurements of surface sea waves off the coast of Sakhalin
Island by bottom pressure stations are analyzed. The shapes of frequency spectra in the wind wave range
demonstrate great diversity and variability. The frequency of sea state conditions are determined in terms of
the parameters of the frequency spectrum width and wave nonlinearity taking into account the change in the
dimensionless parameter of depth at the measurement point. A significant decrease in the probability of high
waves with increasing spectrum width, as well as with an increase in the ratio of the characteristic wave amplitude
to depth, or with an increase in the Ursell parameter, is shown. The result is most clearly manifested
when estimating the spectrum width through the Goda parameter.

Keywords: донное давление, статистическая обработка данных, морские волны, applied statistical analysis, bottom pressure, in-situ data, натурные измерения, surface sea waves