«Формула штанов»: дискуссии о советской мужской моде в стенах домов моделей одежды в годы Оттепели

Новое прошлое. 2025. № 1. С. 162–178.

Platonova E.

The article aims to discuss an earlier almost unexplored part of consumption in the Soviet Union — the making of Soviet men’s fashion. The study examines the activities of fashion houses and their role in shaping Soviet official men’s fashion. Using the official documents of Soviet fashion houses, the article focuses on the key conversations and discussions that took place at these institutions, which became platforms for the exchange of ideas about style, fashion and identity. The research explores the complex relationship between men, fashion and consumption, the balance between official ideology and the real needs of consumers, and the influence of international fashion trends on Soviet fashion. The article shows that Soviet men’s fashion has always been in the shadow of women’s fashion, yet it was supposed to be diverse and dynamically changed in response to changes in political course. However, due to the technological limitations of the Soviet textile industry, as well as conditions of systemic commodity scarcity, there was a sharp gab between Soviet official men’s dress and the reality Soviet men lived in.

Keywords: легкая промышленность, light industry, советская мода, soviet fashion, consumption in USSR, потребление в СССР, men's fashion, fashion houses, мужская мода, дома моделей одежды