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Динамика гравитационных потоков и длинных волн в жидкости с приложениями к морским природным катастрофам
Saarbrücken :
LAP LAMBERT Academic Publishing, 2012.
Николкина И. Ф., Pelinovsky E.
He Y., Slunyaev A., Mori N. et al., Physica D: Nonlinear Phenomena 2026 Vol. 488 Article 135098
Extreme wave localizations in nonlinear dispersive media, arising from modulation instability in weakly nonlinear
wave interactions, can be effectively modeled by breather solutions. These breathers are exact solutions
of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation and provide accurate models for understanding and controlling unidirectional
rogue wave dynamics in numerical simulations or laboratory settings. A recent study by Y. He et ...
Added: February 12, 2026
Slunyaev A., Фундаментальная и прикладная гидрофизика 2025 Т. 18 № 4 С. 28–49
Regimes and limitations of the numerical solution method for hydrodynamic equations using the approximation of the near-surface velocity potential by the high-order Taylor expansion (High Order Spectral Method, HOSM) are investigated. This approach is considered in the context of simulation of large ensembles of sea surface displacement fields under finite-depth conditions. The main attention is ...
Added: February 12, 2026
Rybkin A., Pelinovsky E., Bobrovnikov O. et al., Journal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy 2024 Vol. 10 P. 941–952
The study of the process of catastrophic tsunami-type waves on the coast makes it possible to determine the destructive force of waves on the coast. In hydrodynamics, the one-dimensional theory of the run-up of non-linear waves on a flat slope has gained great popularity, within which rigorous analytical results have been obtained in the class of non-breaking ...
Added: December 11, 2024
A. A. Abrashkin, Monatshefte fur Mathematik 2022 Vol. 199 No. 4 P. 717–732
Propagation of periodic stationaryweakly vortical gravitationalwaves on the freewater surface is considered. Similar wave motion was studied by Gouyon (Ann de la Fac des Sci de l’Université de Toulouse Sér 4(22):1–55, 1958) in linear and quadratic approximations in small parameter of the wave’s steepness ε for the deep water conditions.
In this paper this result is considered for the ...
Added: October 13, 2022
Abrashkin A. A., Pelinovsky E., Journal of Physics A: Mathematical and Theoretical 2021 Vol. 54 No. 39 Article 395701
To study stationary periodic weakly vortical waves on water (the Gouyon waves), the method of the modified Lagrangian variables is suggested. The wave vorticity Ω is specified as a series in the small steepness parameter ε in
the form: Ω =\sum( ε^n · Ω_n (b)), where Ω_n are arbitrary functions of the vertical Lagrangian coordinate b. Earlier Gouyon (1958) studied ...
Added: October 5, 2021
Ivanov S. K., Kamchatnov A.M., Physics of Fluids 2019 Vol. 31 Article 057102
We consider evolution of wave pulses with formation of dispersive shock waves in framework of fully nonlinear shallow-water equations. Situations of initial elevations or initial dips on the water surface are treated, and motion of the dispersive shock edges is studied within the Whitham theory of modulations. Simple analytical formulas are obtained for asymptotic stage ...
Added: February 4, 2021
Slunyaev A., Pelinovsky E., Water Waves 2020 Vol. 2 No. 1 P. 59–77
The nonlinear stage of the modulational (Benjamin–Feir) instability of unidirectional deep-water surface gravity waves is simulated numerically by the fifth-order nonlinear envelope equations. The conditions of steep and breaking waves are concerned. The results are compared with the solution of the full potential Euler equations and with the lower-order envelope models (the 3-order nonlinear Schrödinger ...
Added: April 22, 2020
Abrashkin A. A., Pelinovsky E., Physics-Uspekhi 2018 Vol. 61 P. 307–312
We discuss the properties of two-dimensional, non
linear, potential, and vortex waves on the surface of an ideal
liquid of infinite depth. It is shown that in the quadratic order in
the amplitude, the vorticity of the Gerstner wave is equal in
magnitude to and different in sign from that of the Stokes drift
current in a surface layer. This ...
Added: October 3, 2018
Abrashkin A. A., Pelinovsky E., Успехи физических наук 2018 Т. 188 С. 329–334
It is shown in the quadratic approximation that the Gerstner wave vorticity is equal and of different sign to the vorticity of Stokes drift current in deep water. That gives an opportunity to interpret the Stokes wave as a superposition of the Gerstner wave and the Stokes drift and to explain, why the nonlinearity in ...
Added: October 17, 2017
Pelinovsky E., Choi B. H., Kim K. O. et al., Ocean and Polar Research (Korea) 2014 Vol. 36 No. 3 P. 223–232
The 2011 Tohoku earthquake triggered extremely destructive tsunami waves which propagated over the Pacific Ocean, Atlantic Ocean through Drake Passage and Indian Ocean respectively. A total of 10 tide-gauge records collected from the UNESCO/IOC site were analyzed through a band-pass digital filtering device to examine the observed tsunami characteristics. The ray tracing method and finite-difference ...
Added: November 19, 2014
Pelinovsky E., Kurkin A. A., Кузнецов К. И. et al., Известия РАН. Физика атмосферы и океана 2014 Т. 50 № 2 С. 242–250
The results of windwave measurements with bottompressure sensors are discussed. These mea surements were performed at the southeastern coast of the Island of Sakhalin in 2006–2009. The problems of converting data obtained with these sensors into waterlevel displacent in the context of the linear theory are noted. Twenty records with a duration of 2 weeks ...
Added: November 19, 2014
Pelinovsky E., Kurkin A. A., Кузнецов К. И. et al., Экологические системы и приборы 2014 № 2 С. 33–39
Instrumental data of the long-term observation of abnormally large waves (freak waves) on the shelf of Sakhalin Island near the village Vsmorie, cape Ostriy, orifi ce of the Izmenchivae Lake, cape Svobodniy and cape Aniwa since 2007 are adduced. These measurements were made with using bottom stations, measuring variations in bottom pressure, induced by surface ...
Added: November 19, 2014
Pelinovsky E., Kurkin A. A., Козелков А. С., Труды НГТУ им. Р.Е. Алексеева 2014 № 2 С. 26–35
short review of the potential tsunamis of cosmic origin is given ...
Added: November 19, 2014
Pelinovsky E., Диденкулова И. И., Диденкулов О. И., Известия РАН. Физика атмосферы и океана 2014 Т. 50 № 5 С. 604–611
We study the run up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a beach in the case of compos ite bottom topography: a plane sloping beach transforms into a region of constant depth. We confirm that nonlinear wave deformation of positive polarity (wave crest) resulting in an increase in the wave steepness leads to a significant ...
Added: November 19, 2014
Batsyna E. K., Petrukhin N., Pelinovsky E., Нижегородский технический университет, 2014.
Non reflected waves in the strongly inhomogeneous atmosphere are discussed. The application to the geophysical and astrophysical problems is done ...
Added: November 19, 2014
Pelinovsky E., Диденкулова И. И., Диденкулов О. И., Труды НГТУ им. Р.Е. Алексеева 2014 № 3 С. 30–36
It is shown characteristic parameters of wave run-up for different pulses normalized by their height and wave length (duration), have close values and can be parameterized. The details of the form of the individual symmetric bell-shape pulse does not influence much run-up characteristics and can be neglected. ...
Added: November 19, 2014
Pelinovsky E., Родин А. А., Нижегородский технический университет, 2014.
Nonlinear waves in the coastal zone can be dangered for coastal infrastructure, tourism and waterways. Given books deals with dynamics of nonlinear long waves taking into account the breaking effects. Developed theory is applied for interpretation of the natural and laboratory data including freak wave phenomenon. ...
Added: November 19, 2014
Abrashkin A. A., Oshmarina O. E., Physics Letters A 2014 Vol. 378 P. 2866–2871
A vortical model of breather overturning on deep water is proposed. The action of wind is simulated by nonuniform pressure on the free surface. The fluid motion is described by an exact solution of 2D hydrodynamic equations for an inviscid fluid in Lagrangian variables. Fluid particles rotate in circles of different radii. Formation of contraflexure ...
Added: September 16, 2014
Abrashkin A. A., Bodunova Y., Fluid Dynamics 2012 Vol. 47 No. 6 P. 725–734
Standing surface waves in a viscous infinite-depth fluid are studied. The solution of the problem is obtained in the linear and quadratic approximations. The case of long, as compared with the boundary layer thickness, waves is analyzed in detail. The trajectories of fluid particles are determined and an expression for the vorticity is derived. ...
Added: February 25, 2014
Abrashkin A. A., Бодунова Ю. П., Известия РАН. Механика жидкости и газа 2012 № 6 С. 50–59
Изучаются стоячие поверхностные волны в вязкой жидкости бесконечной глубины. Дано решение задачи в линейном и квадратичном приближениях. Подробно проанализирован случай длинных по сравнению с толщиной пограничного слоя волн. Определены траектории жидких частиц и выражение для завихренности. ...
Added: November 19, 2013
Ezersky A., Abcha N., Pelinovsky E., Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 2013 Vol. 20 No. 1 P. 35–40
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in ...
Added: January 24, 2013
Pelinovsky E., Родин А. А., Известия РАН. Физика атмосферы и океана 2012 Т. 48 № 3 С. 343–349
The transformation of a nonlinear wave in shallow water is investigated analytically and numerically within the framework of longwave theory. It is shown that the nonlinearity parameter (the Mach number), which is defined as the ratio of the particle velocity in the wave to the propagation velocity, can be well above unity in a deep ...
Added: January 18, 2013