Оммаж мухе: инсектные коды в живописи и моде

Т. 74ТМ. Вып. 4/2024. Редакция журнала "Новое литературное обозрение", 2024.

Sakhno I.

The article examines the emblematic sign of the "fly" within the context of Renaissance poetics and fashion practices. The author analyzes the fly as a significant allegorical detail in the works of Carlo Crivelli, Matteo di Giovanni, Petrus Christus, Giovanni Francesco Barbieri (Guercino), and other artists, interpreting this iconographic symbol through the lens of the religious and allegorical symbolism of the time. Musca depicta — the fly depicted on canvas — becomes a stylistic device through which the artist demonstrates mastery by employing optical illusion (trompe-l’œil). The success of such a detail, as well as its iconographic value, was determined by the artist's technical skill: the fly captivated viewers with its realism and brought the author renown. The focus of the article is on insect codes, which have recently been actively used in capsule collections and accessories by global brands such as Patrizia Pepe, Fly London, Pangaia, and others. The author traces the transformation of this sign from Renaissance symbolism to the contemporary language of fashion.

Keywords: religious symbolism, Мода, detail, musca depicta, trompe-l’oeil, fly, деталь в искусстве, musca depicta, религиозный символизм, trompe-l’oeil, муха