Nonlinear waves in the coastal zone can be dangered for coastal infrastructure, tourism and waterways. Given books deals with dynamics of nonlinear long waves taking into account the breaking effects. Developed theory is applied for interpretation of the natural and laboratory data including freak wave phenomenon.
Non reflected waves in the strongly inhomogeneous atmosphere are discussed. The application to the geophysical and astrophysical problems is done
Standing surface waves in a viscous infinite-depth fluid are studied. The solution of the problem is obtained in the linear and quadratic approximations. The case of long, as compared with the boundary layer thickness, waves is analyzed in detail. The trajectories of fluid particles are determined and an expression for the vorticity is derived.
It is shown characteristic parameters of wave run-up for different pulses normalized by their height and wave length (duration), have close values and can be parameterized. The details of the form of the individual symmetric bell-shape pulse does not influence much run-up characteristics and can be neglected.