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Давление на дно, вызванное прохождением уединенной волны в прибрежной зоне

Кузнецов К. И., Зайцев А. И., Пелиновский Е. Н., Куркин А. А.

In this paper, we study the important problem of the registration of the sea waves with the help of pressure recorders installed on the bottom. Dissenting attention is paid to the possibility of using low dispersion highly nonlinear models for the calculation of a bottom pressure through fl uctuations in sea surface, caused by the passage of a solitary wave. In the framework of weakly-dispersive fully-nonlinear theory of long waves (so-called system- Zheleznyak–Pelinovsky) obtained a simplifi ed formula for the variations of pressure at any depth, associated with the passage of progressive waves on the surface. Analyzed the properties of solitary waves and performed their comparison with the known approaches Korteweg-de Vries equation, which is valid for weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive waves. Details are researched bottom pressure fl uctuations caused by the soliton is small and moderate amplitude. It is shown that, starting from the heights of the soliton, roughly equal to half the depth of the basin, the spatial distribution of the pressure becomes two-humped, and the pressure at the center of the wave decreases as compared to the hydrostatic. The motion of a small-amplitude solitary wave (soliton) caused a pressure, the shape of which repeat the shape of the soliton.